How to carry out the grafting of mango seedlings

When the mango rootstock seedlings grow to a height of 45 cm and a thickness of 25 cm at a height of 1 cm or more, they can be grafted. Grafting is usually performed every year from February to May and from August to October. Different grafting methods are used depending on the thickness of the rootstock. Smaller rootstocks are joined together; the rootstocks are larger in thickness than the scions, and cut-joint methods can be used; thicker old rootstocks can be used to make buds.

(1) Joining method: Select the last shoot that has matured at the top of the crown as the scion, preferably the bud that has just sprouted but has not yet sprouted. After the shoots were removed, the leaves were immediately cut off, leaving a few petioles, and only the base of the petiole was cut off during grafting. When grafting, rootstocks are cut obliquely from bottom to top at a height of 25 cm. The incision length depends on the thickness of the stem but should be at least 2.5 cm. Keep leaves as much as possible on the stock. At the grafting site, the scion thickness should be comparable to that of the rootstock. The length of the scion should be 5-8 cm, preferably with apical buds. The scion is cut into smooth cuts with a slope that exactly corresponds to the rootstock. The incisions of the rootstock and scion were closely fitted, and the 1.5cm wide plastic film tape was used to tie and seal the scion moist. Mango grafting should use this method whenever possible.

(2) Cut connection method: Choose to cut flat on the smooth surface of the rootstock and remove the upper part of the rootstock. Then, on the smooth side, a smooth incision is made along the junction of the xylem and the cortex, and the length of the incision should also be more than 2.5 cm. Similarly, the scion is also cut into a long plane corresponding to the rootstock on a smooth surface and slanted at a 45-degree angle with the long plane at its opposite base. Then, the cutting surface is correspondingly inserted into the cutting surface of the rootstock, and at least one side of the rootstock and the scion forming layer are in close contact with each other, and the sealing is tightly coupled according to the joint method.

(3) Bud-bonding method: For some large old rootstocks, it is more difficult to use the two methods of joining and cutting. The advantage of Bud Buds is that rootstocks do not have to be cut first, so they can be grafted all year round. The specific approach is: Select a smooth part over 25 cm above the ground, cut into the skin with a knife into a T-shape, the depth just to reach the xylem, with the tip of the skin to pick open. On the scion, select strong lateral buds, cut a knife in the upper and lower left and right sides of the bud, take a rectangular shape, peel off the buds, insert the buds upwards into the cuts of the rootstocks, and tightly tie the buds with the film to expose the buds out of the film. About 10-15 days later, after the buds have survived, the rootstock is cut or sawn at about 1 cm to stimulate budding and germination.

Just grafted seedlings should be shaded more than 50% until the first tip turns green before shading. At the same time, the buds on the rootstock must be removed at any time before the buds grow. After the upper grafts grow, the lower buds will stop.

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